An evening of sherry tasting at The Talbot Inn
The Talbot Inn in Mells near Frome was until recently referred to as one of Somerset’s greatest secrets. However, this quaint, but brilliantly styled destination dining pub is now so highly decorated that the secret is well and truly out. When an invitation was extended to me to attend an evening in association with the Beckford Bottle Shop tasting 6 sherries and tapas to accompany, it was an opportunity that I couldn’t pass. If you didn’t know, The Talbot Inn is a 15th century coaching inn with rooms boasting an eclectic and stylish décor and a restaurant with inspirational food and wine. Here is my round up of the evening:
Walking through the great Coach Yard arch along the atmospherically lit cobbled stone path to the Coach House grill, which is to the rear of the Talbot Inn, we could hear the sounds of a live flamenco guitarist on the approached and realised immediately that we were in for a treat. Upon entering we were warmly welcomed and handed a glass of ‘Manzanilla Gabriela’ – a very dry sherry, saline, some complexity and a slight mustiness that many wine drinkers would reject – a brave start to the evening, but a good aperitif even if not something my pallet was particularly used to. Accompanied by salted almonds and olives I soon became attuned to it as we were left to mingle with the other thirty or so guests.
Finding our places at one of the three banquet tables the next glass was filled with a ‘Manzanilla Gabriela Oro’, similar in style to the first offering with the benefit of some additional aging. This was served with ‘Gambas Al Pil Pil’ and ‘Pulpo Ala Gallega’ which looked and tasted distinctly like prawns and octopus to me. Ambiguities aside the combination was quite delicious and the world of sherry began to appeal.
The next course, mid point of the menu appeared to be the show stopper, ‘seared and fig glazed foie gras’ served with a glass of ‘Emilio Hidalgo Amontillado El Tresillo’ (without question the hardest pronunciation of the evening). My pallet was met by the combination of the rich, slightly salty but delicate foie gras and the sweetness of the figgy jam and finally I found some sweetness in my glass and the whole mouthful became a sensation.
Anticipation was starting to gather now as the room was buzzing with both enthusiasm for the next course and the slight intoxication of sherry. Next up was ‘Emilio Hidalgo Gobernador Oloroso’ with Spicy Chorizo and pig’s cheek croquettas. Spicy pork with paprika and cheese is a guaranteed crowd pleaser, but the question was how did the Sherry pair with this classic combination? On the nose: notes of dried fig with a hint of truffle and toffee. In the mouth: sweeter than expected and a distinct nuttiness too—a solid pairing!
The penultimate offering a ‘Cesar Florido Moscatel Dorado’ was served in a flute to direct the liquid directly onto the tongue and accentuate the sweetness, which was now very apparent. A great pairing with the strong saltiness of the Roquefort which was a lovely contrast to the sweetness of the membrillo (quince cheese).
Now reaching the finale, we were met with a chocolate mousse paired with a dark opulent sweet sherry ‘Emilio Hidalgo PX’ featuring lush dried plum and distinct raisin flavours, although less popular with my companions for me this was quite delicious—although in 10 years time this would be spectacular!
In summary, I’m not yet convinced that I’ll be swapping my glass of chardonnay for a glass of sherry in the near future, but it’s reassuring to know that we have a wonderful taste of Spain right here in Frome courtesy of the Beckford Bottle Shop—now we can recommend our favourites for entertaining when advising on the perfect kitchen!
